The tandoor

The tandoor is a clay oven, buried or standing, heated with wood or coal, in which bread is slapped onto the inner wall and meat is lowered on skewers.

It is very old. Tandoor-shaped ovens have been excavated at Harappan sites, which puts the technology in this region four thousand years back.

In a Punjab village it was the sanjha chulha, the shared oven, and it was communal for fuel reasons. In a restaurant it became the basis of an entire cuisine.

Tandoori cooking as a restaurant style was developed at Peshawar before 1947 and taken to Delhi by refugees, principally at Moti Mahal, where tandoori chicken, butter chicken and dal makhani were created in the late 1940s.

The food the world knows as Punjabi is a refugee restaurant cuisine roughly seventy-five years old, built on an oven four thousand years old, and it is not what most Punjabi villages eat.

It works because clay holds heat and gives it back. The wall reaches a temperature no domestic oven does, the bread is cooked in under a minute, and the fat coming off the skewers burns on the coals and smokes the meat hanging above it, which is where the taste actually comes from.

The village oven was not for everyday bread. Roti was made on a tawa at every meal. The tandoor came out for a quantity, for a wedding, for the winter months when a shared fire is worth walking to. Calling it the everyday oven of Punjab has it backward.

Kundan Lal Gujral, Kundan Lal Jaggi and Thakur Dass came out of Peshawar and put a Peshawari oven into a restaurant at Daryaganj. Butter chicken exists because tandoori chicken dries out and somebody had to do something with the previous day's. The most famous dish in Indian cooking is a way of using leftovers.

Archaeological evidence for tandoor-type ovens at Harappan sites.

What we don't know

  • The line of transmission from the Harappan ovens to the modern tandoor, which is assumed rather than traced.

Where to check this

Named but not linked. These are real, findable documents. This project has not consulted them for this page.

  • Published accounts of the origins of the Delhi tandoori restaurants.
  • Archaeological evidence for tandoor-type ovens at Harappan sites.

This page has not yet been read through by the editor. Treat it with more caution than the rest.

How this page was written. The text is compiled from the standard published histories and reference works, not from a document held in hand. Nobody from this project has visited the place or read the archive. The list above is where a reader can go to check it, not a record of what was consulted line by line. Dates and figures are the received account. If you hold something better, write in and it will be corrected.

This is one of 29 accounts in What the Hands Made, the chapter of this site covering the crafts, the buildings and the objects.