What is sold on the street

Punjabi street food is town food and it is largely fried: samosa with chole, pakore, tikki, bhature, jalebi, gulab jamun, and in the winter gajak and rewri made of sesame and gur.

Amritsar has kulcha and fish. Jalandhar has its own set. Every town has one shop that is the shop for one item and everybody knows which.

Lassi and sugarcane juice are the summer drinks. Kanji, a fermented black carrot drink, is the winter one and is disappearing.

The chaat and golgappa vendors are largely migrants from Uttar Pradesh and Bihar and have been for decades, and the item they sell has become Punjabi in the process.

The halwai, the confectioner, is a distinct trade with a fixed repertoire, and the wedding sweets, the barfi and the ladoo made in quantity, are made by the same people.

None of this is village food. A Punjab village eats at home and always has, and the street food economy is what happens where there is a bazaar.

The chhole bhature, the kulcha, the tikki, the golgappa, the jalebi and the lassi in a steel glass are the standard set, and each town has shops known for one of them.

A great deal of it is refugee food. The Delhi and Punjab street menus were reassembled after 1947 by families who had run shops in Lahore, Rawalpindi and Multan.

The trade is almost entirely unrecorded. The shops are family businesses of two and three generations and nobody has written down where any of the recipes came from.

What we don't know

  • Nothing central.

Where to check this

Named but not linked. These are real, findable documents. This project has not consulted them for this page.

  • Food writing on Punjab.
  • Ethnographic observation reported in the literature.

This page has not yet been read through by the editor. Treat it with more caution than the rest.

How this page was written. The text is compiled from the standard published histories and reference works, not from a document held in hand. Nobody from this project has visited the place or read the archive. The list above is where a reader can go to check it, not a record of what was consulted line by line. Dates and figures are the received account. If you hold something better, write in and it will be corrected.

This is one of 120 accounts in The Village Itself, the chapter of this site covering how a Punjabi village works and what it holds.