Khes and durrie

The khes is a thick handwoven cotton cover, usually in a two-colour geometric weave, made on a pit loom and used as a wrap, a blanket and a bedspread. A girl's dowry included a stack of them, often woven or at least commissioned by her own household.

The durrie is the flat woven cotton floor covering, made on a horizontal frame, often by women at home rather than by professional weavers, in stripes or geometric designs and sometimes with names and dates woven in.

Both were made in enormous quantity for household use rather than for sale, which is why they were never treated as a craft with a market and why so few old ones survive in any collection.

Panipat, now in Haryana, became the industrial centre for both and turned them into export products, and the handwoven village article disappeared into that.

A dowry durrie with a bride's name and a year woven into the border is a dated document from a household that produced no other written record. Almost none has been collected.

The khes is woven double, two layers interlocking so that the pattern reverses on the back. That is why it is thick and why it takes a skilled weaver rather than an ordinary one.

The cotton was grown, ginned, spun and dyed within a few miles of the loom for most of the tradition's life. The chain from the field to the bed was entirely local, and every step of it has now been replaced by something bought.

Both were made at home for dowry and for use. Mill cloth and polyester replaced them and the weaving communities left the trade, and the old pieces are sold now as textiles rather than as bedding.

What we don't know

  • How many dated dowry durries survive in Punjabi households. Nobody has looked.

Where to check this

Named but not linked. These are real, findable documents. This project has not consulted them for this page.

  • Ministry of Textiles handloom documentation.
  • Museum collections of Punjabi durries and khes.

This page has not yet been read through by the editor. Treat it with more caution than the rest.

How this page was written. The text is compiled from the standard published histories and reference works, not from a document held in hand. Nobody from this project has visited the place or read the archive. The list above is where a reader can go to check it, not a record of what was consulted line by line. Dates and figures are the received account. If you hold something better, write in and it will be corrected.

This is one of 29 accounts in What the Hands Made, the chapter of this site covering the crafts, the buildings and the objects.