The haveli and the obra

In a Punjabi village the haveli is not a palace. It is the cattle yard and working compound of a farming household, usually separate from the house, with stalls along one side, a store, the chaff cutter and the fodder heap.

The obra is the roofed byre inside it. The word is Punjabi and specific and does not translate into a single English one.

A family's standing was read off its haveli: how many cattle, whether the buffalo were tied under roof or in the open, whether there was a separate room for the tools.

Mechanisation emptied them. A tractor does not need a stall and a dairy of two buffaloes does not need a courtyard. Many havelis in emigrant villages are shut, and a number have collapsed.

In the towns, and in the merchant quarters of Batala, Sunam, Sirhind and Malerkotla, haveli does mean a large courtyard house, often with brickwork, wooden balconies and painted plaster, and those are being lost faster than anything else built in Punjab.

The dung was the other product. It was collected, dried into pathis against a wall and burned, so the haveli was the household's fuel yard as much as its byre.

It usually stood at the edge of the abadi, away from the houses, which is why the abandoned ones are the first thing a visitor sees on the way into a village and why that ground is the first to be sold when the village expands.

With the animals going and the land fragmenting, the havelis have been sold, built on or left standing empty, and the word has drifted toward its Urdu sense.

What we don't know

  • How many pre-1900 courtyard houses survive in Punjab's small towns. No inventory exists.

Where to check this

Named but not linked. These are real, findable documents. This project has not consulted them for this page.

  • Punjabi vernacular architecture literature.
  • Conservation reporting on Punjab's urban havelis.

This page has not yet been read through by the editor. Treat it with more caution than the rest.

How this page was written. The text is compiled from the standard published histories and reference works, not from a document held in hand. Nobody from this project has visited the place or read the archive. The list above is where a reader can go to check it, not a record of what was consulted line by line. Dates and figures are the received account. If you hold something better, write in and it will be corrected.

This is one of 120 accounts in The Village Itself, the chapter of this site covering how a Punjabi village works and what it holds.